A Farm Tour: Twin Pines Alpacas

July began with an exciting visit to a Twin Alpaca Farm and Fiber Mill in Millbrook, Ontario, organized by my local handweaving and spinning guild. On the first Saturday of the month, I arrived at the farm on a sunny day, greeted by green pastures and alpacas roaming around. It was my first time visiting a farm that raises alpacas and processes their fiber on-site. The farm also had a store selling roving, yarn, and handmade items made from alpaca fleece. In this blog post, I’ll share some highlights of my visit and how I’ve used alpaca fiber in my projects.

1) How Alpacas are raised

The first part of the tour focused on how they raise their Huacaya alpacas. Unlike suri alpacas, Huacayas have fleece that is fluffy and dense, similar to wool. The alpacas are shorn once a year, and they had been recently shorn when we visited. The farmers emphasized the importance of good husbandry, including a nutrient-dense diet and regular shearing, to produce high-quality fleece. This is important to consider when buying alpaca fleece, as a farm’s primary objective (whether for food, fleece, or hobby) influences their care practices. For hand spinners, good quality fleece is essential for an enjoyable spinning process and a beautiful final product. It was reassuring to hear that this farm prioritizes producing great fleece.

During the tour, we got to feed the alpacas oats. Initially cautious, the alpacas eventually approached us for the treat. Despite my initial apprehension about these relatively large animals (I’m barely 5 feet tall) approaching, it was a calming and enjoyable experience.

The farmers can identify each alpaca by sight, and the alpacas respond to their names. Alpacas come in up to 50 natural shades, eliminating the need to dye their fiber. Their fleece has a staple length (cut end to the tip of the lock) of 3 to 4 inches, ideal for hand carding, an important factor to keep in mind when considering to process their fleece by hand. 

huacaya alpacas
huacaya alpacas

2) How Alpaca Fleece is Processed

Earlier this year, I visited a fiber mill called Wool 4 Ewe. This mill, primarily run by Barb, one of the Twin Alpaca owners, operates at full capacity nearly year-round, except in January and February. The mill has extensive equipment, including a dehairing machine and a spinning/plying machine to make yarn.

The alpaca fleece goes through the same milling process as sheep fleece, involving steps like picking and carding. The dehairing machine removes guard hairs from the alpaca fleece, which cause fuzziness, resulting in a smoother and shinier yarn. The mill typically produces DK and worsted weight yarn.

I discovered that using the spinning machine to achieve the desired final yarn is somewhat of an art, similar to hand spinning. Often, alpaca fleece is blended with other fibers, such as merino, bamboo, and silk, to enhance the yarn’s stability.

spinning machine yarn
spinning machine used to make yarn

3) How I have used alpaca in my crafting journey

* Spun alpaca fleece to make yarn

A year ago, I was gifted a 2-ounce alpaca batt from a farm called Shear Joy Alpacas. I spun it into a semi-worsted 2-ply sport weight yarn. Initially, I planned to keep it as singles, but plying them together created an interesting marled effect. I intend to weave this handspun yarn with other commercially processed alpaca yarn to have enough yardage for a blanket. Since alpaca yarn has a nice drape and is super soft, it will make a cozy throw for the cooler months.

handspun yarn alpaca fleece
handspun yarn from alpaca fleece

* Crochet a blanket

I started making a blanket with alpaca yarn about 10 years ago. Using a commercial alpaca and wool blend in teal, I began crocheting the Hexagon Panel Afghan by Marcia Walton. It’s still a work in progress, but I recently downloaded the pattern again to continue and hopefully finish it sometime this decade LOL!

alpaca wool crochet blanket panel
alpaca wool blend crochet blanket panel

The alpaca tour reminded me to broaden my interests beyond just wool in my crafting journey. Its soft texture could add a nice touch to many handmade items. I’m excited to learn more about it as opportunities come up. Have you worked with alpaca fiber? If so, what did you make and did you enjoy it? Please share your thoughts in the comments below.

Natural Dyeing Diaries: Rhubarb Leaves

Natural dyeing has always interested me. Using plants to dye feels like a way to connect with nature. I was intimidated by dyeing wool, so I hoped a workshop would help me start. When that didn’t happen, a friend encouraged me to try it on my own. So, I did and decided to share my journey with you. I researched natural dyeing at my library and found great resources like A Garden to Dye for by Chris McLaughlin and Natural Kitchen Dyes by Alicia Hall. These books gave me the basic information I needed, and I chose rhubarb leaves for my first dyeing project since they were easy to find. Here are the steps I took to dye 100% wool worsted weight yarn with rhubarb leaves.

Step #1- Harvest Rhubarb leaves

I was eager to start natural dyeing right away, so I looked for an abundant plant to use. Rhubarb was in peak growth, and while I’m not a gardener and plants tend to wilt around me, my friend had some rhubarb in her garden. She gladly shared some with me. My research showed that fresh rhubarb leaves were best for dyeing, so I quickly cut them into smaller pieces. To achieve a good color saturation, I needed a 1:1 ratio of fresh leaves to the weight of dry fiber (WOF). The expected color from rhubarb leaves is mustard yellow if the water’s pH is neutral (pH 7). While my resources explained modifying colors by reducing or increasing pH values, I focused on mastering the basics first.

I chopped up the leftover rhubarb roots and stored them in the freezer for future use. Rhubarb leaves can act as a mordant, which helps the color adhere to the fiber, but I used them solely for their color. To ensure a deeper mustard yellow, I decided on a 2:1 ratio. My wool fiber weighed 114 grams, and the rhubarb leaves weighed 192 grams, which was close enough for me since I rarely measure exactly.

rhubarb leaves plant natural dyeing

Step 2: Preparing the dyebath

I used a stainless steel pot with a lid, dedicated solely to dyeing, as rhubarb leaves contain poisonous oxalic acid. The pot was large enough to hold the chopped leaves and enough water to cover them. I heated the pot until the dyebath gently boiled, then reduced the heat to let it simmer for an hour. I kept the lid on during this time and ensured proper ventilation by keeping the windows open.

After an hour, I removed the pot from the stove and set it aside. Though this wasn’t my original plan, I ended up leaving it for two days due to a busy schedule. This extra time allowed more dye to be extracted from the leaves, turning the dyebath from a golden yellow to a dark mustard yellow.

I strained the dyebath using a metal sieve and poured the liquid into mason jars for storage in the fridge. The total volume of the dyebath was 2.854 liters.

 

chopped rhubarb leaves natural dyeing
chopped rhubarb leaves for natural dyeing
finished rhubarb leaves dyebath for natural dyeing
pouring finished rhubarb leaves dyebath for natural dyeing

Step # 3: Preparing the wool for dyeing

It is recommended to scour your wool first to remove any substances that might prevent the dye from adhering properly. Although my wool yarn was relatively clean, I still used a gentle wool wash (Eucalan) and let it soak for 20 minutes before rinsing it with cool water. Then, I prepared a lukewarm water bath and let the yarn soak for at least an hour before dyeing, as wet yarn absorbs dye better.

Step # 4: Dyeing the wool in the rhubarb leaves dyebath

I poured all of the dyebath solution and the pre-soaked wool yarn into a stainless steel pot and covered it with a lid. I brought it to a gentle boil, then reduced the heat and let it simmer for an hour. During this time, I gently pushed the yarn deeper into the dyebath only twice to avoid felting it. After an hour, I removed the pot from the burner and let it cool before extracting the yarn. At first glance, the yarn had completely taken up the mustard yellow color.

Step #5: Rinsing and Finishing the natural dyed yarn

Rinsing the yarn was the most nerve-wrecking part. I rinsed the yarn using water at the same temperature it was resting in until the water ran clear. I was anxious to see if the deep mustard color would stay or fade to a pale yellow. To my surprise, most of the deep mustard color remained, and it didn’t take more than 10 minutes for the water to become clear. I decided to soak it in Eucalan for another 10 minutes and rinse it again. Only a small amount of dye ran off this time. After a final rinse, which took less than a couple of minutes, I hung the yarn to dry.

 

Ta! Da! Here is my first naturally dyed yarn and it turned out pretty good 😊

natural dye yarn rhubarb leaves
naturally dyed yarn with rhubarb leaves

Was I intimidated when I first started this process? Absolutely. Despite my fear of failing, I went for it and am very proud of the results. Even if it had gone wrong, it wouldn’t have been the end of the world. It took little time and resources, and most importantly, I had fun. I plan to continue sharing my natural dye journey, with future projects using onion skins, avocado skins and pits, and more. Have you tried dyeing your yarn or fabric before? Feel free to comment below.

Processing Wool Fleece at a Local Mill: Lessons Learned

I unexpectedly received some Valais Blacknose sheep fleece as a generous gift from a new shepherd, introduced by a mutual friend who knew I was a handspinner and weaver. These sheep are famously cute; just Google “cutest sheep in the world” to see them. Our friend texted me, asking if I wanted the fleece, and I quickly replied, “yes.” A few days later, I received the beautiful wool fleece bundles and started thinking about processing fleece into roving for spinning. Last year, my friend and I planned to tour a local fiber mill, and now there’s a real incentive to do it. In my excitement, I realized I have many questions about the next steps to get the best outcome from processing this precious fiber at my local mill. Here’s what I learned!

1) Skirting the fleece is an important step!

Skirt the fleece – What does skirting mean? It’s not about dressing your fleece with a tutu but removing the less desirable parts that come with raw fleece, such as vegetative matter (VM)/hay, tags (feces), and second cuts (shorter pieces of fleece from shearing an area twice). Skirting is a crucial step in preparing your fleece for the mill. Most mills charge based on the incoming fleece’s weight, so skirting removes unusable waste like dirt and debris, reducing the weight and cost. Skirting a fleece takes time and energy, and it’s best to avoid windy days to prevent your fleece from blowing away—ask me how I know! In the future, consider making a skirting table, a frame with a screen that lets dirt and debris fall through. There are several YouTube videos on how to make your own like this one by Shepherd Industries .

valais black nose sheep
Valais black nose sheep photo credit- monikas_wunderwelt

2) Make a list of questions to ask the mill prior to sending your fleeces for processing.

  • What is the minimal and maximal staple length their equipment can handle?
    • Staple length is the length of lock or fiber from butt to tip.
  • Is there a minimum amount of fiber that is required to get processed ?
    • My local mill  is a small operation and will work with small batches even if you only have one fleece to process.
  • What breeds of sheep the mill tends to process?
    • This turned out to be a very important question for me because Valais blacknose sheep is not a common breed here in Canada and this breed tends to have a long staple length. One of my fleeces could not be processed because it had a staple length greater than 8 inches.
wool fleece skirted
my skirted wool fleece
  • What is the turn around time for processing your fleece?
    • The estimated time in my case will be 3 to 4 months which is fine since I still have fiber I can spin and it gives me time to brainstorm ideas . It could be worse considering some mills have a year turnaround time.
  • What processing services do they provide?
    • My options were limited to making a roving or batt or felted into sheets. This mill had only a picker, carder and felting machine onsite. Yarn can be done but it is sent to another mill.  Some mills have services include dyeing and  blending with other fibers.

Another useful tip I found is to prewash your fleece to save on costs, as approximately 30% of the dry weight is due to lanolin. If your fleece is very dirty, mills may charge an additional fee to clean it.

Since this is my first time processing a fleece, I’m sure I’m only scratching the surface of the topic. What I’ve learned so far has made me respect the labor-intensive process of converting fleece into yarn even more. While I know how much time it takes to make yarn, I’ve discovered there are many additional steps required to transform raw fleece into a spin-ready preparation. I admire handspinners who process their own fleece and might try it myself in the future. For now, I appreciate the opportunity to support local mills. Have you ever bought fleece and processed it yourself, or have you sent it out to a mill? Feel free to comment below.

Exploring the Concept of Colours as Values

I came across an old weaving pattern from the January/February 1994 Handwoven Magazine called “Winter Lichen Towels” by Jean Scorge. It featured two main aspects I wanted for my new project: 1) the twill color weave technique, and 2) a geometric/block design. These were not my usual preferences, but I was eager for a challenge and something different. However, the most significant challenge I faced with this project was creating a fresh color scheme to give it a modern twist.

Understanding color theory wasn’t easy for me, despite being creative. Picking colors that worked well together to enhance my projects didn’t come naturally. I usually preferred darker shades like black, navy, and charcoal because they felt comfortable to me. Mixing colors with similar darkness seemed safe, but it often resulted in losing the design’s impact. Even though I knew about primary colors and how they combine to form complementary, secondary, and tertiary colors, I still lacked confidence in choosing colors wisely. However, watching Gail Defrusne’s video “The Value of Values” changed my perspective. Her approach of considering values, or the darkness or lightness of colors, helped me select colors and plan designs more efficiently and effectively.

handwoven towel colour planning
updated Winter Lichen handwoven towels

The original colors in the pattern were sage green, white, and charcoal. While I liked each color individually, the combination felt dated with this pattern. Instead of relying on the color wheel for inspiration, I chose to visualize the pattern in grayscale, akin to pencil shading. In the future, I plan to take a picture of the pattern and apply a black and white effect for a quicker reference. Then, I organized my stash of 8/2 cotton into dark, medium, and light tones. I opted for navy as the dark color, denim blue as the medium tone, and white as the light tone. The next step involved deciding where to place these colors within the geometric design to highlight the contrast between dark and light. In the border section of the pattern, I alternated colors every two rows (picks of weaving) to draw attention to this detail. Alternating navy and white, which offered the most contrast, seemed the logical choice. Seeing the prewashed finished towels, following the original weaving pattern, I’m thrilled with the result! It brings a refreshing update to the older pattern.

For the next two towels, I’m changing the weaving pattern to incorporate more color blocking. One towel will feature a solid block of navy, while the other will alternate navy and white every four rows (picks). I’m hoping that this weaving style will give the almost vintage pattern a modern twist. Check out this sneak peek video below to see how it’s coming along!

Exploring color more deeply, especially from a value perspective, has been really fulfilling. It’s pushed me out of my comfort zone of sticking to dark colors and choosing hues solely based on their position on the color wheel. I’m excited to apply this new approach to color planning and selection in all my future projects. How do you typically select colors for your projects? I’d love to hear your thoughts! Please comment below.

Spinning Yarn Is Worth It!

When I started spinning yarn, people often asked why I bothered when it’s so easy to buy. It’s a fair question, and I often wish I could explain in detail why. So, here’s a brief reminder for myself and an invitation for others to understand why I love spinning yarn. I hope fellow handspinners can relate, and those curious about spinning will dive into this rewarding craft and get hooked, just like I did.

1) One of a Kind!

Handspun yarn stands out distinctly, bearing the unmistakable mark of human craftsmanship that is difficult to replicate by machines. This human touch, with its imperfections, adds character to the yarn, making it special. Why does this matter? When you use handspun yarn in any fiber craft, it adds a unique quality to the pattern and, consequently, to the final design of your project. For instance, last fall, I worked on a French weaving project, which I detailed in my blog post “Harvesting Creativity.” While the weaving pattern itself was beautiful, using handspun yarn made the pattern more prominent, enhancing the overall design.

handspun yarn
handspun yarn

From time to time, I enjoy going through my collection of handspun yarn to remind myself of what I have and to motivate myself to use it more in my fiber crafts instead of just keeping it stored away. It’s a way for me to get excited about upcoming projects and, despite my attempts to envision the finished item, I’m always pleasantly surprised by how it turns out. Because handspun yarn is so unique, it’s difficult to predict how it will behave or which aspects of a design it will highlight, and I believe that’s part of its charm. I’m looking forward to using it in projects I haven’t tried before, like rug hooking, and I’ll be sure to update you when I do.

2) Variability

I appreciate the versatility that handspun yarn offers, particularly in terms of its variability. One key aspect for me is the size or thickness of the yarn. While commercial yarn comes in different weights or sizes, I can still achieve variability even within these weight classes. For instance, my favorite yarn to use, fingering weight (also known as 4 ply yarn), allows me to create a thicker version that borders on sport weight yarn, or I can go the opposite way and produce almost lace weight without spinning too fine.

Another aspect I enjoy is the ability to control the number of plies to achieve the desired thickness and sturdiness of the yarn. For example, when knitting socks, a 3-ply yarn is generally preferred over a 2-ply yarn because the additional strand provides more resilience against friction when the socks are worn.

bobbin of single ply yarn

Most importantly, the variability of color arrangement is key. Fibers can be divided at color changes and spun separately, or divided into thin strips and spun randomly. This encourages more blending of colors, creating visual interest in the yarn strands and ultimately enhancing the final handmade project.

3) Enjoyment!

Expressing the joy of spinning requires acknowledging both its technical aspects and its inherent fulfillment. While learning the technicalities may seem daunting at first, once you find your rhythm, spinning becomes truly enjoyable. This enjoyment extends into other fiber crafts like knitting or weaving with handspun yarn. The unique texture and feel of handspun yarn, distinct from commercial yarns, add to the pleasure of working with it. Moreover, the knowledge that you’re creating from scratch adds depth to the slow making journey, fostering a greater appreciation for the final product and the creative process itself.

handspun yarn
2 ply handspun yarn

If it wasn’t clear from my earlier words, I truly believe that spinning yarn is worth the investment. While it may indeed be more expensive and time-consuming compared to buying commercial yarn, the unique qualities, variability, and enjoyment factor it offers are unparalleled. The satisfaction derived from creating something entirely unique and the joy it brings to future projects outweigh the cost considerations for me. I’m eager to hear your thoughts on spinning or working with handspun yarn. Please feel free to share your comments below.

Unleashing Creativity: What to Do with Fabric Scraps

After the holidays, with a tight budget, I’m exploring creative ways to utilize the scraps of materials I’ve gathered over the years. Admittedly, I find it challenging to part with things, always believing I’ll find a future use for them. Whether that labels me a packrat or a hoarder, I’ll leave that question unanswered! This month, out of necessity, I’ve put my collection of wool strips, fabric scraps, yarn balls, and woven fabric pieces to good use, sparking fresh ideas for their creative application. This surge of inspiration has prompted me to share some current crafting projects and future plans with you.

1) Using leftover wool strips to hook a mug rug

I must admit, I am addicted to rug hooking right now and I am eager to learn all there is to know about it. Fortunately, I know someone who has been hooking for years and graciously shared her knowledge and wool stash with me. Using a scrap bag of wool strips (often called “worms” in rug hooking), I designed a mini mug rug for a friend. Who knows, it may end up being used as a decorative feature in another crafting project! This experience taught me to experiment with new colors I don’t usually gravitate towards, work with smaller wool strips, and modify designs based on available materials.

rug hooking pig
hooked pig mug rug

2) Using fabric scraps to make a pincushion and mini quilt

I have a 9×12 plastic bin where I keep all my fabric scraps from previous quilting projects. I limit it to that size to encourage myself to buy only the fabric I need for each project, but it’s still filled with tiny pieces of fabric that I didn’t know what to do with. Recently, I was inspired by a crafting YouTube channel called Crafty Cottage Stitches, which is hosting a #pinkeep social. The idea is to make different kinds of pin cushions using whatever materials you want. It was a light bulb moment for me! My bin of fiber scraps would be perfect for this project. Instead of just using random small pieces of fabric to make a multi-color rectangle and stuffing it with fiber fill, I remembered the Mini Dresden pin cushion pattern by Deidra McCollum from Quilty Obsession that I’ve had for more than 5 years. I was initially intimidated because I wasn’t familiar with hand applique and felt more comfortable sewing bigger pieces of fabric. However, I decided to give it a try. I used Amy Sinabaldi’s free embroidery pattern of a sheep to decorate the middle of the Dresden plate on the front panel of the boxed pin cushion. I can hardly wait to see the final product! Now that I’m looking at it, though, I don’t think I can even use it as a pin cushion—it’s too cute! 😊

fabric scraps pin cushion
mini pin cushion using fabric scraps

The pincushion wasn’t the only idea that came to mind when brainstorming what to do with my fabric scraps. A couple of months ago, I came across a workshop at one of my local quilt stores called kawandi quilting. After some research, I discovered that it involves hand-sewing pieces of fabric onto a larger piece to create a quilt. As you may know from my previous posts, I’m a big fan of hand embroidery. In fact, my first post was titled “The Great Quilting Showdown: Machine Quilting vs. Hand Quilting.” This is a project I plan to learn on my own, as there are several great YouTube tutorials available, like this one, How to Make a Kawandi Inspired Quilt, that shows you how to do it.

3) Using handwoven fabric samples to make ornaments

Initially, I was hesitant to admit that I might have a tendency to hoard crafting materials. You might think my collection of handwoven fabric pieces supports this idea. However, it sort of fell into my lap, so to speak. My weaving teacher was clearing out her cabinets of handwoven fabric samples and offered them to students like me. At the time, I didn’t know what to do with them, but they were free and beautiful, so I accepted them. Recently, I’ve been contemplating some personal designs that incorporate handwoven fabric. I’m not sure yet what these stuffed star ornaments will ultimately become—whether they’ll be part of a larger design (which I’m leaning towards) or a standalone project. Perhaps I’ll even fill them with lavender or other dried scented flowers. Regardless, I love how they turned out—soft and squishy.

handwoven fabric scrap sewn star ornament
sewn star ornament with hand woven fabric samples

This year, I’ve been focused on expanding my creativity by experimenting with materials in new ways and exploring different design approaches. Projects like the ones mentioned above have been particularly inspiring, and I’m eager to see how they develop in the coming weeks as I continue working on them. I’m committed to staying on this creative journey and discovering what other projects and designs emerge as I let go of the need to strictly follow patterns and instead embrace thinking outside the box. What about you? What projects are you currently working on that involve working with scraps? Feel free to share in the comments below! 

The Great Showdown: Hand Quilting vs Machine Quilting

Music: I Remember Well by Cody Francis

Hand Quilting Won this Round!

Are you guilty of having a pile of wips! I have a pile for every craft. I try to keep them at a minimum, but I often fail. I can be easily distracted like a squirrel with a shiny new object with the other new exciting projects that I want to work on right away. Recently I rediscovered a quilting project using leftover fabrics scraps from an adorable fabric line from Dashwood. The quilt top was finished and it was intended to be sold as a baby quilt in my Etsy shop. The next step was to quilt this beauty either by sewing machine or by hand. Time was not a factor in this decision. I knew for certain that I wanted to accentuate the beautiful bright bold colours in this quilt. When I checked my machine thread collection it was mainly neutral colours but I desired colours that were BOLD and BRIGHT. I felt this look could be achieved by using thicker weight thread called perle cotton which I use often in my hand embroidery. After a brief Google search and watching a YouTube video on big stitch quilting, I decided that hand quilting was the perfect choice. Here are my reasons for choosing hand quilting for this project: 

1) Stitching was more defined

The thicker thread stood out more especially against the bold, intense fabric colours. I used perle 8 embroidery thread (equivalent to 2 strands of embroidery floss held together) instead of the larger size, perle 5 (equivalent to 6 strands of embroidery floss held together) because it was less overwhelming to the eye. I used clover’s embroidery needle size #10 to thread the needle. The brand of threads used were a combination of DMC and Wonderfil which I purchased either from my local quilting shop, The Country Clothesline or Michaels.

2) Switch thread colours quicker

With threading several embroidery needles at once, I was able to switch thread colours quickly vs changing bobbin thread and spool of thread for every ½ triangle I was going to hand quilt. Plus, if I accidently used the wrong colour, for example using the same colour as the adjacent 1\2 triangle, it was quicker and easier to pull the stitches out without reaching for my handy dandy seam ripper. Even though the concept of hand quilting conjures the image of slow stitching, I found that it did not take as much time because I was making bigger stitches and covering a lot of space in a short of period.

embroidery thread
Perle cotton embroidery thread

3) Creates a whimsical organic look or unique factor

Handmade items have a unique human touch, which brings subtle imperfections that can make items more distinct and organic. Naturally your stitching will look different based on how you feel. When I feel stressed, my stitches look tighter and closer together than when I am relaxed. If you want your stitching to look even, mark dots evenly with an erasable pen such as Sewline and Fixxon and a ruler. Test the pen on extra fabric first to make sure you can remove the marks if needed. If you forget to test, it’s not a big deal – the thread will probably cover the marks.  You see another a bonus for using perle cotton thread for quilting. For those who have Natalie Chanin’s book, “The Geometry of Handsewing,” there’s an added benefit. The plastic templates found in the book can serve as valuable guides for achieving the desired spacing and patterns. This insightful tip was inspired by Quilters Candy.

4) Very portable!

I didn’t have to sit at my sewing machine, which lives in my dining room that’s more of a craft room now. I hardly dine in there now and the number of sewing supplies outnumber the china and refined cutlery in my china cabinet. I used a 11 x 11 q-snap frame while I was quilting. The set up was light and portable, allowing me to even quilt comfortably in bed. And in case you’re wondering, no, I didn’t fall asleep – that would be quite the scary scenario, right? Falling asleep with a sharp needle in hand (ouch!). The portability of hand quilting was a welcome change because it spared me the battle with my sewing machine, which has a narrow throat space. Trust me, most of the time, I lose that battle.

5) Living in the Moment

Slow stitching is a mindful activity. I am conscious of every stitch I make. Personally,  I can have moments where my mind will drift off while I am machine quilting because I do not have to be too engaged since the machine is doing bulk of the work. Now an argument could be made that free form machine quilting could be more mindful since you are more involved in the quilting process as you are thinking about the pattern you are designing in the quilt. However, I enjoy the process more of hand quilting because it feels more intentional and this is important for me when I am creating.

Each time I look at my finished quilt, I realized I made the right choice to hand quilt. The fun bold colours in the fabric and thread choices make the quilt looks so unique and whimisical. 

What is your go-to method for quilting? hand quilting or machine quilting? Leave a comment below. 

Until next time, keep making the things you love!

hand quilting baby blanket
Finished hand quilted blanket